Why Rwanda?
If you’re not
familiar with African geography, Rwanda is a small country in east central
Africa, just south of the equator. A bit larger than New Jersey, Rwanda is home
to 11 million people. The economy is based on subsistence farming with coffee
and tea being major exports, but young blood is pushing for Rwanda to be an
example of technology to surrounding countries. Temperate weather year round,
green and mountainous, Rwanda is beautiful.
Tribal conflicts
eventually erupted into a bloody and cruel genocide that claimed almost a
million lives in a few short months. Depending on whose story you believe,
Rwanda was either a peaceful culture that learned race hatred from the Belgian
and German colonials, or a tribal mix with a history of conflicts that
eventually exploded. Either way, Rwanda is a nation wounded. Trust is short in
a country in which, just decades ago, husbands killed wives, friends killed
friends, and churches were complicit in government sponsored butchery.
The genocide decimated
the country’s stock of pastors. To address the need for leadership, a Rwandan
Christian formed an organization named ALARM: African Leadership And
Reconciliation Ministries. This body aimed to train new leaders, armed with the
love of Christ and prepared to do the tough work of reconciling the war-torn
nation. ALARM made connections with American churches in the Dallas area and
sought seminary-trained men who could visit and contribute to the work. That’s
where this story begins.
I have been a
Christian since my teens, but my visit to Rwanda with ALARM was my first ever
missions trip. Why Rwanda, and why now?
Puzzle Pieces
The Rwandan
genocide of 1994 was in the news when I was almost forty. Life at home was busy
as always (a new six-month old son, changing roles at work and church), so I
didn’t pay much heed. When I thought of it, I had the vague notion of half-clad
savages chasing through jungles with machetes. I just assumed that was the
natural state of things in uncivilized Africa. I was not racist, just deeply ignorant,
in a world much wider than I knew.
In the past year
or so, God has been stirring in my heart the need to take practical action in
reducing the distance between churches of different ethnic makeup. Nothing
militant, no sign carrying; just the simple step of joining a men’s Bible study
at a nearby African-American church. I have built some relationships there,
been part of their men’s retreat, and have come to love the guys in my circle.
These men passionately seek Jesus, and when race has come out onto the table, it has been
with good humor and maturity.
I have no idea
whether this fact played any part, but Markus Lloyd, our own church’s director
of external focus (who happens to be African-American), approached me and
asked, since I have teaching experience, if I would be interested in an
upcoming trip to Rwanda to train pastors there. I sensed the hand of God moving
puzzle pieces into place, and when we later had an informational meeting on the
opportunity, I was all-in ready to go.
One factor that
might have blocked my trip was that the number of men in the team was likely to
be much larger than previous visits there. So, I might very well have been off
the short list in favor of men with more international missions experience. As
it was, Markus was concerned that we had a large contingent of teachers and did
not know how to give each of them a chance to teach! But when he heard that I
also have skills in illustrating, his eyes lit up and he proposed that I travel
primarily as session illustrator for the other teachers. My skin tingled as I
saw again that God was up to something special. Much as I love to teach, I saw
this as a unique opportunity to explore a fresh ministry and serve both the
teaching team and the Rwandan pastors. Here I am! Send me!
Packing Light
A few of the team
members (including Markus) had been to Rwanda previously, since this was part
of a multi-year series of training conferences. I was full of questions for
them. Would we be speaking through interpreters? What unique needs did Rwandan
pastors face? Was there any lingering conflict that might erupt? What sort of
presentation tools might be available for illustration?
One issue for me
was the actual teaching content. Stateside, if I were asked to teach a weeklong
series to pastors, I’d be consumed with producing a deep, valuable experience
for them, well organized and worth their while. I expressed my sense that we
had little time to prepare and that it didn’t seem like the material was
getting the attention I thought it required. Markus and the others, though,
assured me of what I later found to be true: that the structure of these
training sessions was subject to sudden change, and that it was best to prepare
for multiple outcomes and just be flexible. As Markus put it, don’t just be
flexible, be vapor!
I knew God had it
in His hands, so I turned my focus to the practicals. What does one wear? How
do you prepare, what do you pack, what will the flights be like? Fortunately,
there was plenty of information available on all these matters. I bought some
clothes specifically for the trip and treated them with spray-on insecticide. I
hit the drugstore for aids to sleep, to avoid constipation, to solve
dehydration, whatever. I visited my bank branch to obtain a few hundred dollars
in the newest, cleanest bills, since I’d heard that Rwanda would resist
accepting older currency.
The one thing
that first-time international travelers may be nervous about turned out to be
trivial: inoculations. I needed vaccinations for Typhoid, Hepatitis A, Yellow
Fever, and others. My doctor sent me in the direction of Passport Health, a
clinic that would handle all of my needs (although a bit pricier than some
other alternatives). The shots themselves were not at all unpleasant and I
didn’t experience any untoward reactions. My wife and I went to our grocery
store to get our flu shots and that was a bigger delay and hassle than Passport
Health.
I am very
fortunate that my wife is a very clever packer. I had one large suitcase that
needed to contain clothes for eleven days, including a shipping tube containing
a number of illustrations I had drawn in advance. She created a handful of
plastic zippered bags, each with a set of clothes for one day. She also figured
out how to shoehorn in all of the other items (shoes, shaving kit, drugs,
books, and more.) Originally, I’d gotten the impression that luggage was likely
to get lost so I’d be safer just to carry all of my clothing in a backpack; I
am very glad that I did not try that!
Team Sport
As I prepared for
this adventure, I found that I had two different angles on the team that was
going. The first was the delightful diversity of the group. I don’t mean
capital-D diversity as we mean it today, as if all we cared about was skin
color. That said, we had one black, one Hispanic, one Asian, and seven
lily-white Caucasians, but representing five churches of different
denominations. The idea was to encourage the Rwandan church, badly split and
struggling with trust issues, that it is possible for churches to partner
together and serve Jesus effectively.
The second angle
was more personal. Whenever I found myself asking, “Who should I ask about this
or that detail? What did they do the last time around? What is the proper way
to prepare?” I felt the Holy Spirit telling me that God was sending me
to Rwanda. Yes, we were all sent as a team. But I needed to recognize that God
had a specific agenda for me, a plan that would not fly without me. I needed to
stop following, stop being reactive, and take responsibility for my own call;
not in pride, but in servanthood. I needed to relax a bit and see the trip as a
wonderful privilege, an adventure that few people get, given to me by a Father
who loves to bless His children.
Shifting Terrain
Here is a bird’s
eye view of how the trip was intended to proceed. The team would be assembled
and would prepare for several weeks, then fly to Rwanda for about nine days not
counting travel. There would be two venues: a formal Pastoral Leadership Training Institute and a more relaxed General Pastoral Leadership Conference, running in parallel. Some of the team would focus on one or the other venue, some would float between both, and I would act as session illustrator for all.
Since the
conferences themselves would only consume 3-5 days, there would be plenty of
time for other endeavors. ALARM sponsored a girls’ high school nearby that we
would visit, and a coffee plantation that employed and taught Rwandans in
needed skills. We would also get the chance to visit a few genocide memorials
to gain an appreciation of that dark chapter in their history. There’d also be
time to go into town, meet the locals, sample the foods, and perhaps shop for
souvenirs.
We learned,
though, to hold our plans lightly. For starters, the team itself went through a
few iterations, as some intended members dropped out for various personal
reasons. Then, more significantly, it was learned that the very structure of
the general conference would change. Apparently, the Rwandan government had
recently imposed some new laws affecting churches, and a government official
would attend the conference and explain the laws. In a very short time, we
pirouetted from a conference on servant leadership to a new focus on how the
church relates to the state.
The days
themselves were also subject to change. The general conference was held
outdoors under large tents, and heavy rain affected the schedule more than
once. The sessions with the government official and natural delays caused us to
adjust the start of sessions as required. Then, too, teaching through interpreters
meant that a given amount of material would take longer to present than one
might have thought. Thankfully we were blessed with some very gifted
translators! In the end, though, we learned to trust God with the schedule; we
were there to serve the Rwandan pastors, not vice versa.
Getting There
The team met at
Dallas Ft. Worth International Airport with high spirits, ready to face our
first challenge: long flights and time zone shifting. Ahead of us were three
legs: a three-hour hop to Chicago, followed by a seven-hour drag to Brussels
and an eight-hour ache to Kigali, the capital city of Rwanda. I slept well on
one of the legs and watched a lot of onboard video in between. Not all of us
fared as well, and full flights meant tight seats and discomfort. We were
eyeing that first-class cabin with envy!
In Kigali we stood
in line a long while to have our passports checked. Then we met with the ALARM
folk who drove us to the ALARM compound in the passenger bus that would become
a familiar vehicle over the next several days. The campus was beautiful! They
had separate buildings for training sessions, meals, attendee dormitories,
offices, a gazebo, and a separate building with rooms for us. Each of us had
his own room and bath, which was better than I’d hoped. The bed had a mosquito
net, and they supplied us with plenty of bottled water (which I relied on when
I brushed my teeth on the advice of someone). Hot water was iffy, as was wi-fi
for internet access, and the rooms could get a bit stuffy when the temperature crept
up to the low 80’s, but they were more than adequate, and the staff kept them
clean for us regularly.
Sunday Go to Meetin’
Our first
breakfast at ALARM on Sunday was a pleasant promise of every morning
thereafter. Mango juice, toast, tea, bananas, pineapple. Then Jacques, our
ever-smiling server, would ask whether we would prefer a Spanish omelette or a
spinach omelette (and often could not understand our answers!) This morning was
special, though; after we finished, we climbed into the cramped passenger van
and took a very bumpy ride to a Free Methodist church where one of us would be
preaching and I would be illustrating. The little building was packed with
adults and many children. Through the service, group after group would come to
the front and sing and dance; it seemed that most members were in one choir or
another, including the kids!
The afternoon
experience was more sobering, as we visited the city’s genocide memorial.
Rwanda has taken that dark chapter to heart; it is illegal to promote racial
division or violence; people are no longer to use their tribal names. The
memorial took us through the events leading up to the genocide, in words,
pictures and short videos, as well as the aftermath. Particularly hard was the
children’s room: there were pictures of children, their names, their favorite
things – and how they died. Other rooms put Rwanda’s tragedy in context
alongside other notable genocides in man’s long violent history. There are even
“genocide deniers” who claim that it never happened. This was a fitting way for
our team to prepare to encourage the leaders who serve hurting souls in this
country.
For the remainder
of the evening we prepared the main hall for the Training Institute sessions.
Based on the course material and suggestions from the teachers, I had drawn
about a dozen illustrations on poster paper and brought them with me from the
States. Many of them elaborated on themes about conflict resolution from Ken
Sande’s book The Peacemaker, or
scriptural passages like Matthew 5:24 (“leave your gift at the altar, first be
reconciled with your brother”). Some were labeled with keywords in the Rwandan
language that I’d learned from the staff. These we taped up throughout the
training hall so that the team could refer to them as they spoke.
One more night
under the mosquito net, morning would dawn and the two conferences would begin.
What would it be like? I slept well and dreamed big.
New Every Morning
I awoke very
early to the sounds of a sunrise worship service outdoors. The pastors had
filled the gazebo across campus and had joined in joyous singing. This became
the pattern every morning throughout the week, and I loved it! The hymns and
choruses were all in Rwandan, but there was no mistaking the frequently
exclaimed “Hallelujah!” followed by “Amen.” I did hear one familiar tune: the
American folk song “Nettleton”, more recognizable as Robinson’s “Come Thou Fount of Every Blessing”, perhaps my favorite hymn, though of course the
Rwandan lyrics were different. Still, hearing that song felt like a gift from
God’s hand.
After breakfast,
the team and the attendees from both conferences met under the tents for more
singing, introductions, and announcements. Then one of the team taught a short
devotional, after which the attendees of the training conference left for the
main hall and the general conference got underway in the tents. We followed
this program with minor variations as the week progressed.
Each morning the
general conference began with a presentation by a lawyer who worked for the
Rwandan government. She would describe the scope of some of the new laws
governing faith-based organizations and requiring pastors to have theological
degrees, then take questions from the attendees. She was impressive! With her
prosecutorial experience, she fielded their questions with confidence and
insight. This was serious business, for the new laws had already resulted in
the closing of many churches. I felt keenly that God had sent us at a key
turning point in Rwandan church history, to encourage and pray for men who would
soon be making momentous decisions.
Then our teaching
began. I confess I had had misgivings about the effectiveness of teaching
through a translator, but these concerns vanished when I saw how skilled our
translators were! All week they served us tirelessly and with a willing
attitude. It helped that they themselves had some theological education and
thus knew the best way to represent the ideas we spoke. As you can imagine, our
American figures of speech gave them some trouble. We would say something like
“a fly on the wall”, or “doing it old school”, and they would stop and stare at
us with wide eyes until we rephrased ourselves.
That first day
the team taught on the various institutions that God has ordained in His world
(the family, the state, the church) and the importance of a proper separation
between them. The Bible teaches that, although the church is distinct from the
state and may often disagree, the church should value the state and seek peace
with it when possible. Part of that process is to pray for leaders, and one of
the more dramatic times on that first day was when the conferees broke up into
small groups to pray for the cleansing of Rwanda. As those groups sought God
with deep passion in their own language, we walked about in the open air,
calling for the Holy Spirit to fall afresh on these men.
Seeing the Invisible
As the week
progressed, one of my earnest prayers was to “see the invisible”, to look past
the logistics, the language barrier, the daily schedule, and to gain an insight
into what God was doing there, and why. I had a real sense that we were there,
not as exalted teachers, but as observers and encouragers. Jesus had been in
Rwanda before we arrived and would be there after we left. It was their story, penned by their Lord, and
we were footnotes in that saga.
I also began to
see how God had chosen this specific team of ten men with the intention of
teaching each of us something that we needed. Each evening after dinner we
would meet in the gazebo to debrief, connect, and pray together. Some of us
were struggling with feelings of inadequacy, of being ill equipped for
ministry. The more we served these pastors, the more God fed and encouraged us.
He is always the good Father who loves to gift His children. More than once
during the week, I saw a situation in which one of us received exactly the
opportunity or affirmation he’d needed, and perceived that God had architected
it. I saw the invisible.
For my part, I
learned that my skillset as an illustrator is a valid gift that I can offer
back to the God who gave it. I’ve always loved to teach scriptural truth with
the spoken word, and there were a few opportunities on this trip for me to do
so. Yet I saw, again and again, how the visual arts build a bridge across
barriers of language or culture or experience. God Himself is a relentless
artist, expressing truth and beauty in every flower, sunset, gene or galaxy. So,
I came away with a renewed belief that sketchcraft will play an ever growing
part in my service to Him. Again, I saw something hidden, with new eyes.
The climax came
on Wednesday morning, during the general conference devotion. One of our team
read from the beginning of the book of Jeremiah. The prophet Jeremiah was
young, uncertain, awkward – but called. God is the one who personally connects
with us, consecrates us, and completes His work, even when we feel inadequate
or unqualified. That message resonated, the Spirit of God squeezed my heart,
and tears came out. We are so performance driven, so self-conscious. Did I have
to fly around the world to begin to see the unlimited grace, the open arms that
He holds out? That day it was like the curtain had been pulled back. Yet we
were just halfway through the trip; there was more to learn.
Light and Darkness
The Rwandan
people are some of the friendliest and most accessible folk you’ll meet. Apart
from the conference, we had opportunities to interact with people in the nearby
streets, shops, and towns. We were always made to feel welcome. Smiles, hands
waving, kind words – we know that the genocide left deep scars and sowed
distrust, but we often saw a brighter, more hopeful face to the country.
ALARM birthed the
Institute of Women's Excellence (IWE),
a residential girls’ school boarding close to 200 high school girls in search
of a future beyond the poverty and shattered families that were the legacy of
the genocide. On Wednesday afternoon the team took a trip out to the school to
see the work that was being done.
What a delight
these students were! The girls gave us a room-by-room tour of the facilities:
the library, the classrooms, the computer lab, the crowded dormitories filled
wall to wall with bunk beds. They were learning the sciences, mastering math,
improving their prospects. They put on a show for us with traditional dances,
gave us gifts of hand-drawn artwork, made us feel welcome. These who had so
little were remarkably full of light and hope.
Yet on another
day we caught a different glimpse of Rwanda, as we visited a genocide memorial
in another town. This had been a Catholic church to which thousands of women and
children fled for refuge.
Government-backed militia systematically killed
the terrified occupants of the church building. They use grenades, guns, and
then machetes and outright torture. Behind the building were mass graves; we
entered and saw the skulls and bones of thousands, simply crammed into caskets
and shelved.
Such brutality
and cruelty are scarcely imaginable. It seems like an irrational madness, a
dark evil leaking into the daylight like deeply buried poisonous chemical
waste. This is no simple social malady; no amount of enlightened progressive
education or sensitivity training or reconciliation happy-talk will banish this
sort of insanity. It has the noxious stink of something subhuman, malevolent,
demonic.
As I prayed near that building, I saw how foul all sin really is. God
warned Adam and Eve in the Garden that, on the day that they chose rebellion,
they would surely die; and mankind has died a million deaths ever since. Every
sin from then onward – every act of treachery, every casual lie, every
injustice or murder -- is just the recurrence of a malignant cancer that is
never in remission. Only when Jesus returns to heal all things will this
leprous sickness be cleansed for good.
To our relief, children
were playing and laughing at a school next door. Their voices lightened our
mood and reminded us that life triumphs over death -- one day for good.
A Good Day for Coffee
Graduation Day
for the training institute came on Friday. It was time for these men to travel
back to their churches and responsibilities, but we had built a special bond
with them. A few days earlier, I had been sitting in the training hall during a
session, and as I looked at the pastors, I clearly heard the Lord say, “Do you
see my children?” Now, as the conferences ended, I shared with them that
message, and how they were like the disciples at Pentecost with flame resting
above their heads, empowered to serve. Others in our team spoke as well, and
one gave the students a solemn charge as we handed each of them a very special gift: a
study Bible in the Rwandan language. With much singing, hugging, and
photographing, we parted.
After a dramatic
week of service and discovery, it made sense to step away as a team and process
the experience. So, on Saturday we made the long drive to the Cyimbili coffee plantation. Situated on beautiful Lake Kivu, this plantation is managed by
ALARM to provide jobs and experience to Rwandans, and produces a premium coffee
unique to the country. We took a hike through the facility. Aside from
machinery to remove pulp from the beans, the process is thoroughly manual;
workers pick a bean at a time and sort good from bad by eyesight on large
grids. Rain and the onset of evening ended the tour in some haste. We enjoyed a
dinner that was perhaps the most traditional of any we’d had to that point,
including a doughy form of cassava from which you pull off a piece that you dip
in sauces. We ended the night with an intimate time of sharing what we’d
learned about each other during our trip, as lightning and rain crashed about
us.
In the morning we
cooled off with a swim! The shore of Lake Kivu was literally at our doorstep,
as if we were at a private beach resort. The water was cool and refreshing, and
a couple of us swam all the way to a nearby island. Lake Kivu is in the top ten
deepest lakes in the world reaching a depth of 1500 feet. I brought back a
small piece of smoothed volcanic rock from the sand underwater as a keepsake.
After breakfast we attended church at a building right on the grounds of the plantation.
The place was packed, about 600 people; we later found out that this was
because it served a second congregation whose building had been shut down by
the new laws. One of us preached a message he had been longing to share for
many years and that was so apropos for Rwanda: that Jesus came to bind up the broken-hearted, as the book of Isaiah tells us.
After church we
had lunch and then hustled into the van to leave, since it had already been
raining and the driver wanted to get out of the area before more rain made
exiting difficult. It was terrifying! The little bus slid this way and that as
it worked its way along twisty paths just a few feet from the mountainous edge.
We were all cheering when the van finally reached the paved road. In about four
hours we were safely back at ALARM, and (I confess) ready to prepare to return
to our homes and families.
Take the Long Way Home
Our final day
came, marked with farewells and final meals and pictures. We spent some time at
markets and shops in search of souvenirs, then soon thereafter headed to the
airport. Security was a lot tougher on the way out, and we all agreed that the return
trip seemed longer and harder to manage than the initial trip. One of us even fell
sick before the final leg with what turned out to be pneumonia. Eventually,
though, all of us ended up home, ready to recover and full of thoughts.
I loved this trip,
and I intend, if God wills, to return to Rwanda. I have begun to learn to
relax, to trust the Lord with the work of ministry, and to expect that God is
doing momentous things behind the scenes whether I see them or not. What will
He do next time around?